A big-city feel in a small town
Max London's restaurant brings trend and class
Robin Krosinsky
Issue date: 11/20/09 Section: Features
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I have found that when eating in Max London's, it is easy to forget where you are. The elegantly modern décor transports one to a big city scene, and when you step out onto the Saratoga sidewalk after finishing the meal, a bit of a culture shock occurs.
Max London's offers lunch, dinner and a Sunday brunch. The menu features fresh, local ingredients that are carefully crafted to create unique, flavorful dishes.
One may choose from sections on the menu containing salads, small plates (which are like tapas), medium plates (which are small dinners), big plates (normal portioned dinners) and pizzas.
The lunch menu contains selections from the salads, small plates and pizzas, as well as different sandwiches, including delicious homemade pastrami.
The menu changes seasonally, so currently Max London's dishes are primarily geared towards fall flavors, using local root vegetables and fruits. Some of the restaurant's staple dishes, which should not be missed, include the beet salad and the chickpea polenta fries. I order these two every time I go.
The beet salad is prepared with fresh, sweet beets that are left fairly al dente, so they have a nice crunch. The beets are then paired with tangy, smooth feta cheese and toasted pine nuts, and then drizzled with a salty vinaigrette. The pairing of flavors and textures is perfect.
The chickpea polenta fries are always a favorite by anyone who tries them. The fries are thickly shaped and the lightness of the polenta and chickpea purée gives the center of each fry a silky texture, while the outside is thin and crispy. The fries are served with a tangy black olive aioli, like a mayonnaise, which adds the perfect amount of flavor to the delicately seasoned fries.
For an entrée, the pizzas are always a great choice. They are prepared individually with a really thin, crispy crust and incredibly fresh toppings. The margherita is delicious in its simplicity. The pizza features great dough, freshly prepared sauce, house made mozzarella and basil.
Another favorite is speck. This pizza is a great example of Max London's use of unique ingredients. Every time I eat there, at least one person asks what on Earth speck is. Well, it is a kind of cured ham, similar to sausage. The speck pizza also includes fresh tomatoes, house mozzarella and fresh arugala piled on top. It is a more sophisticated take on pizza, and the flavors work wonderfully together.
Most of the big and medium plate dishes include different pastas, such as a house-made gnocchi prepared with braised rabbit. One of the best seasonal dishes that Max London's is currently offering is the orecchiette, which is a type of pasta that is prepared with squash and walnut-brown butter. The tastes of fall pour off of the plate.
Along with the wonderful savory dishes, Max London's has one of the best desserts I have ever eaten in Saratoga. It is called the bandino, and it is a parfait of sorts featuring chocolate mousse, a butterscotch mousse, homemade caramel and whipped cream. What could be a simple combination of chocolate and caramel is amped up by Max London's use of fresh, salted caramel, which pairs with the rich mousse in a perfect union of salty and sweet. Think chocolate-covered pretzel turned amazing, decadent mousse dessert.
Max London's offers a culinary escape from rural upstate New York living into the refined glamour of the city. The décor is lavishly, yet tastefully decorated. The menu features fresh, unique dishes, and the service is always wonderful.
The restaurant will soon be accepting the Skidmore ID card, so use the opportunity to enjoy a great meal downtown. Happy eating, Skidmore!
Robin Krosinsky is a sophomore with a passion for food.
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